as I have often commented on this blog, I come from Philadelphia, a city of many fantastic and excellent sandwiches. the City of Brotherly Love boasts dozens and dozens of sandwich shops producing not just good sandwiches, but good and distinctive sandwiches unique to this country and perhaps the world, including the incomparable cheesesteak, the hoagie (which is not the same as a sub, hoagie, grinder, hero, etc., but, indeed, is BETTER), and the roast pork & greens, which I happen not to be particularly fond of (even having sampled the alleged best of philly, at tony luke’s) but which a lot of other people swear by. (NB: I can’t help that these roast pork fans choose the pork over the cheesesteak because roast pork is lesser known, harder to find, and a somewhat purer food (consisting only of succulent pork, broccoli rabe or spinach, and maybe some good sharp provolone), while the cheesesteak is beloved and consumed worldwide (athough most have only eaten the foulest imitation of it), even by the crudest of food philistines, and frequently comes doused in neon yellow-orange Cheez Whiz. But I digress.)
Having grown up in the sandwich utopia of our nation, I have had a hard time adjusting to life in Boston, where decent sandwiches are rather hard to come by, and decent and distinctive sandwiches even more so. here and there you will find a good rendition of a classic sandwich, as in the generally solid menu at Darwin’s, good sandwiches, but of the sort you can get most other places in the country. reubens, ham and cheese, and the like. also, Darwin’s is both expensive and incredibly slow. Then, of course, there is the transcendent roast beef at Kelly’s and points further north (roast beef being a North Shore sort of thing), but Kelly’s is all the way out on Revere Beach and thus must be an occasional luxury. I hear good reviews about Sam Lagrassa’s downtown, but haven’t been yet, and it’s apparently damn expensive to boot. So all in all, I can’t claim to have comprehensive knowledge of the Boston sandwich scene, but I have been around a good bit and I can say without hesitation that the pickings here are somewhat slim.
BUT today I finally tried the chacarero at Chacarero in Downtown Crossing and it gave me the thoroughly satiated contentment that only a huge excellent sandwich can, and that I don’t think I’d yet experienced in Boston. To obtain a chacarero, you wander around Downtown Crossing until you find the random side street it’s on. there will be a long line of workaday-looking people on their lunch break from whatever financial services / banking / accounting jobs they have. order your sandwich with the woman up front, advance slowly up to the counter, and observe as the following elements are assembled:
- a round, flat-but-slightly-puffy torta sort of bread
- sauteed pounded plain chicken breast (you can also get beef)
- a green chile based hot sauce that’s really more pesto-like than hot sauce like in form
- sauteed green beans
- avocado spread (NOT guacamole as some have suggested)
- lots of tomato
- melted muenster cheese
the resulting sandwich will be ready in approximately 3 seconds and will be the size of your whole face. and what a sandwich it is. connoisseurs know that the true potential of the sandwich form is realized in those specimens which weave disparate ingredients (including bread, the most essential ingredient of a sandwich and the one whose quality will make or break the whole thing – which boston, with its horribly innocuous sandwich rolls and “bulkies,” does not seem to realize) into an indivisible whole. anyone can make a pile of stuff and put it between bread, but a good sandwich is not this. a good sandwich, like a good cocktail (or really anything with a complicated recipe in which the core ingredients remain more or less intact at the recipe’s completion), is not a cacophony – it is, above all else, harmonious. it is a triumphant symphony. and anyone who thinks this language is too lofty for mere sandwiches has never enjoyed a good sandwich.
the chacarero is indeed a symphony. no ingredient is out of place, no ingredient is overwhelming, no ingredient hides mutely in the background. the melted muenster cheese, is perfect, perfect, and the hot sauce is precisely hot and sharp enough to accent the chicken, which would be bland on a plate by itself but here shines in its own quiet way. the bread, which they bake themselves, is tasty. there is just enough of it, and it is a robust enough sort of bread, to support the relatively large sandwich without making it overly bready.
the whole sandwich was seven bucks and was almost too much to eat in one sitting. so in conclusion, if this is not the greatest and best sandwich experience in downtown boston (if not the whole city proper), I will eat my shoe, Werner Herzog style.